September 10, 2026 Post by : Editorial Gardening Tips

Once you've grown lavender successfully, you'll want more of it. Maybe you want to extend a hedge, fill a few pots for the patio, or share starts with friends. Buying new plants every year gets expensive, and growing from seed is slow and unpredictable. The answer is propagation from cuttings — a simple, satisfying process that lets you clone your best-performing plants and fill your garden for free.

The best time to take lavender cuttings is in late spring or early summer, when plants are actively growing but not yet in full bloom. Some growers also take cuttings in early fall, though they need protection through the winter. Choose healthy, non-flowering shoots from the current season's growth. Avoid stems that are too soft and green (they rot easily) or too old and woody (they root poorly). The sweet spot is a stem that's starting to firm up but still flexible.

Step-by-Step: Taking and Rooting Cuttings

Using clean, sharp scissors or pruners, cut a 4- to 6-inch length of stem just below a leaf node. Strip the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting, leaving a few sets at the top. If the cutting has flower buds, pinch them off — you want the plant's energy going into root production, not blooms. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone if you have it, though lavender often roots without it.

Fill a small pot with a free-draining mix — half perlite or coarse sand and half potting soil works well. Poke a hole in the mix with a pencil, insert the cutting so that at least two leaf nodes are buried, and firm the soil around it. Water gently and place the pot in a warm, bright spot out of direct sun. A plastic bag or humidity dome over the pot helps keep moisture in, but remove it for a few minutes each day to prevent mold.

Roots typically form in three to six weeks. You'll know the cutting has rooted when you see new growth at the top or feel resistance when you tug gently on the stem. At that point, remove the humidity cover and let the plant acclimate for a week before transplanting into a larger pot or the garden. Keep young plants well-watered but not soggy, and protect them from extreme heat or cold until they're established.

Tips for Success and Common Mistakes

The biggest mistake new propagators make is overwatering. Lavender cuttings rot quickly in wet soil, so use a gritty mix and water only when the surface feels dry. Another common issue is taking cuttings at the wrong time — midsummer cuttings often struggle in the heat, while late-fall cuttings may not root before cold weather arrives. Stick to late spring or early summer for the best results.

Variety matters, too. English lavenders root more reliably than French or Spanish types, which can be finicky. If you're propagating a tender variety, plan to overwinter the cuttings indoors in a bright, cool spot. A sunny windowsill or a cool greenhouse works well.

Finally, be patient. Lavender cuttings are slower to root than many other herbs, and it's normal for them to look a little sad for the first couple of weeks. Don't give up and don't over-fuss. Once roots form, the plants grow quickly and will be ready to bloom the following season. Propagating your own lavender is a small act of sustainability — it reduces plastic nursery pots, saves money, and keeps your favorite plants alive for years to come.

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